How I Made Avery's Yellow Fairy Costume
Ok, wrong season to be blogging about a Halloween costume. But we’ve been busy, winter flew by, and somehow it’s nearly spring. And what’s more springy than a butter-yellow, nature-inspired fairy costume? Bam! Off-season blog post justified.
Since she learned to talk, Avery made it clear that she was all about yellow, so it made sense that her third Halloween costume would be an variation on that theme. So I raided my stash for all of the yellow remnants I could find. Fortunately I bought a lot of yellow fabric back in my hoarding days, including a beautiful piece of marigold silk from The Fabric Store, some leftover cotton gauze from my Stevie blouse, and some scraps I had leftover from other projects. I only had to purchase some additional fabric for the wings, which required something stiff and gauzy. Here’s a recap of my process:
Inventory, plan, sketch
As I mentioned above, I took stock of the fabric I already had to avoid buying too much more. I then sketched out plans for the skirt (self-drafted and fairly simple) and determined that I would need to purchase a pattern for the top. I decided to attach the wings to the top/ vest so that I wouldn’t have to add additional straps (which I thought would disrupt the lines and look a little funky), so had to create a sturdy, heavier top to accommodate them.
I took a little trip to Joann’s and settled on Simplicity 1786 — a simple vest that I could easily alter to include Velcro closure. For the wings, I planned to use a technique I learned making costumes in high school theater: basically, a big wad of gauzy synthetic shaped into four wing-shaped bows and supported by light jewelry wire.
Prepare and Cut the Fabric
For the skirt, I used cardstock to create a simple template, and cut out about fifteen “petals,” alternating between leftover rayon and marigold silk that I found at The Fabric Store a few years back. I wanted the rayon to match the silk a bit more closely, so I used turmeric to dye both fabrics and get them a little closer in tone. I’m not a natural dye expert by any stretch, but I found that turmeric tea + extra powdered turmeric + hot water, soaked for about 15 minutes and rinsed, worked well. I used a serger to finish each petal before dying them, so the thread ended up matching, too.
I decided to line the vest instead of using bias tape. This of course made the process more complicated and required cutting double pieces (cotton gauze and rayon), but it made the final piece sturdy enough to balance the wings that would be attached later.
Sew and ASSEMBLE
The vest was fairly easy to assemble, but the skirt took a little more finessing. After attaching each petal to the waste band, I folded and inserted the elastic, but boy howdy that took about 45 minutes (I despise inserting elastic—I still haven’t figured out how to do it efficiently).
I’m not sure how to describe the wing-making process (I probably should have made a video), but basically for each wing I folded a large rectangle of fabric, inserted a string of medium-weight jewelry wire at the fold, then molded it into a leaf shape cinched at the base. Once all four were complete, I attached them at the back center of the vest, covered with a small circle of the cotton gauze, then finished with marigold embroidery thread (see pictures below).
I used fabric scraps, naturally molted feathers, and a single seashell to created the hairpiece, which I held together with embroidery thread and a hot glue gun.
All in all, it turned out pretty epic, and Avery was the happiest (and possibly only) little yellow fairy in town.
Sustainable Gifts for People Who Sew, Knit, and Craft
This list of list slow-made, sustainable, indie-focused holiday picks is sure to get your crafty friend or loved one thinking, organizing, and creating.
It’s no secret that I love to make stuff and that I’m a giant sentimental nerd when it comes to the holidays (having a kid has only exacerbated the problem). But I do try to be conscientious about the impact my crafting and holiday-ing has on people and the planet. As the sewing community becomes more and more focused on sustainability, it’s likely that the maker in your life has similar concerns. So I put this list slow-made, sustainable, indie-focused holiday picks that are sure to get your crafty friend or loved one thinking, organizing, and creating.
Waxed canvas Field Bag by Fringe Supply Co.
$77.90 at A Verb for Keeping Warm
This sturdy durable bag features lots of storage, a vegetable-tanned leather carry loop, and cotton drawstring. Made in the USA from sturdy waxed cotton canvas, it’s a great solution for knitters and other makers frequently on the go.
Vanishing Fleece: Adventures in American Wool
$17.99 at Amazon
In her latest book, knitter and writer Clara Parks details her adventures transforming a 676-pound bale of fleece into saleable yarn, and the people and vanishing industry she discovered along the way. Great for the knitter in your life — or anyone who loves a good nonfiction read.
“Measure Twice, Cut Once” Solid Brass Measuring Tape
$58 from Best Made Co.
This is more of a “for the maker who has everything” gift because —let’s be honest— $58 is a lot to spend on a tape measure. But its durable, solid brass case (made in Germany) and timeless message is sure to make this one a hit.
studio carta Dressmaker Shears
$52 at Studio Carta
These dressmaker shears are functional and pretty as heck. Crafted in Italy with hard-tempered steel, sharp serrated blades and a 24-karat gold-plated handle, these shears are an heirloom in their own right.
Note: If you’re looking for a less expensive option, I always recommend the Japanese-made Kai shears. They really are the perfect scissors.
Wool and the Gang Glitterball Sock Yarn
$20 at Wool and the Gang
In general, sparkles aren’t super sustainable. But this British sourced and spun yarn is a mix of 100% naturally renewable wool and lurex offers a good compromise. Produced by eco-conscious suppliers, this extra soft wool has a subtle hint of holiday glitz.
Fringe leather tool pouch by Fringe Supply Co.
$64 at Fringe Supply Co.
Handmade in Denver, Colorado, this simple leather envelope pouch holds tools, spare needles, and all other wayward supplies. The pouch features undyed, waxed cotton stitching, an antiqued-brass snap, and natural vegetable-tanned leather.
Purl Soho Heirloom Wool Ornament Kit
$98 at Purl Soho
My grandmother made several sets of felt Christmas ornaments that have been distributed among her twelve (!) children—and children’s children—for years. I managed to acquire a couple of them and they’re one of the best parts of trimming the tree. Use this kit to make ornaments for your loved ones, or give the whole kit to a crafty someone in your life! The kit includes 100% wool felt pieces, cotton thread, needles, beads, sequins, and everything else you need to complete the project.
Purl Soho also sells beautiful felted wool bundles — great for stuffing those stockings!
Miss Make Looper Quilt Pattern
$16 at Miss Make
I am in love/ awe of this recent quilt pattern release by Devon Iott of Miss Make. I’m not a super skilled quilter, but if I was I would absolutely put this pattern on my list. The Looper includes modular blocks that can be rearranged in any direction to create a continuous design. A perfectly modern, perfectly accessibly, perfectly perfect pattern.
Llamallooma Pom-Pom Maker
$15 at Fancy Tiger Crafts
Know anyone obsessed with pom poms? Empower them to make their own with the the Llamallooma from Betz White. Made from baltic birch, the loom is easy to use and cute as all get out. Pair it with some US-grown yarn for the perfect stocking stuffer.
“Ta Da” Woven Labels by Kylie and the Machine
$8.50 at Fancy Tiger Crafts
Oeko-Tex certified in plastic-free recycled packaging, these labels let the sewist in your life do a little humble-bragging.
Colette Patterns Enamel Pins
$8 at Colette Patterns
These cute little sewing-themed pins make great stocking stuffers. Each pin features a beautiful rose gold finish.
Closet Case Patterns Gift Card
$25 increments at Close Case Patterns
You can never go wrong with a gift card, especially to one of the best indie pattern makers out there! This Closet Case Patterns gift cards are printed on beautiful rose and gold cardstock. Or purchase a digital version to curtail that carbon footprint.
Disclosure: This post is not sponsored, but I do make commission via Skimlinks. Thanks for supporting Birds of a Thread!
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Rituals
I almost gave up on this Aster blouse three times: first when I botched the back pleat; secondly when I decided that double bias tape would work just as well as single (it doesn't); and finally when I sewed several crooked buttonholes on to my too-narrow placket. But last Friday, it suddenly seemed very important to keep trying.
So I started sewing again... with a vengeance.
Although the details are too personal to share here, let's just say I've been wrestling with a lot of emotions over the past two weeks. My upbeat Instagram posts belie some very real, adult-level sadness, and I've had more than a few cry sessions on my morning commute. It's life, I am ok, and I have friends, family, and an awesome husband to get me through. But when you're hurting in the midst of much bigger tragedies (Paris, the refugee crisis, escalating racial tensions here in United States), it's easy to disappear into your sad cave for a while.
Yesterday I felt the need for some kind of ritual. I'm not particularly religious, but I do crave tradition and still hold on to a smattering of Catholic-liberal-Christian beliefs. In times like these they help a lot; I need to believe in something bigger than myself and my own sorrow. So I walked down to the market and bought a bouquet of fresh flowers. I made a marigold chain, burned some sage and lit a few candles.
And I commemorated the silly, mistake-ridden blouse I that I approached with so much love and tenacity. A project I finished just to finish something. To find joy in creation. To prove that life goes on.
Summer Capsule Wardrobe, Make One: A Vintage-Style Halter Top
Hot damn! It's my belly button. Call the police and the fireman oh wait no, just get me a bottle of self-tanner. Clearly I haven't seen much sun lately, but that's not stopping me from showin' off my first make of 2015. It's a floral halter top using Simplicity 1365, a revival of a 1970's pattern that fits in perfectly with my Summer capsule wardrobe plans. I found the fabric at Britex a few months back, along with matching vintage-style buttons (have you ever seen Britex's button wall? It's majestic).
I'm pretty happy with the fit, although the button closure in the back pulls a bit (this is because I was out of interfacing and too impatient to buy more... my bad). But my favorite thing about this pattern is the clean finish. It's fully lined and requires the you "stitch in the ditch" to secure the straps from the inside. This means that I have a beautiful, fully-finished garment without the use of a serger. So much better than using pinking shears or dealing with French seams! I'm already planning a version using some of the black Nanette Lepore eyelet I have stashed away.
In other news, I've been working on adding variety to my poses, as evidenced in the diptych below. Probably still needs some work.
Crafting and Ethical Wardrobe: the Knee-Length Skirt
I like to balance structure with flow, so I usually opt for a snug pencil skirt with a looser blouse or a fitted sweater with an a-line. As part of the Wardrobe Architect project, I put together some of my favorite silhouettes during week four; you can also use these handy templates (built painstakingly in Illustrator by yours truly) to find your favorite combination.
Where to buy it:
Trina Turk is a great choice for a variety of professional pieces, and much of her line is now made in California. I'm especially in love with a grey pencil skirt I recently found at Nordstrom Rack. The fit is perfect for my particular shape (narrower at the waist with plenty of room for the ol' hips), and the construction is amazing. I usually look for Trina Turk on sale; otherwise, her stuff can run a little steep.
If you're more interested in shopping fair trade, try People Tree, Annie Greenabelle, or One Mango Tree, all of whom usually carry a pencil skirt. I also love Mata Traders' Speakeasy skirt from their Fall collection.
How to make it:
I've had one of Colette's Zinnia skirts cut in a lightweight navy wool and ready to assemble in my sewing drawer for... oh, I don't know, eight months now? At any rate, I love it, and hope to finally finish mine before the end of the year (modest goals, folks). I also bought By Hand London's Charlotte skirt pattern in the hopes of making a floral version like Oona's below. Just lovely. A few more options include Sewaholic's Hollyburn skirt, Tilly's Miette, and Deer and Doe's Anemone. By Hand London also has a great tutorial on creating a simple gathered skirt — no pattern needed.
Warp x Weft Workshop at Brtitex Fabrics
Last Tuesday, Britex hosted a workshop called Warp x Weft: Textile 101. Part of SF Made Week and led by the super-knowledgeable Geana Sieburger, the workshop provided an overview of different fiber types, the fabrics they're converted to, and the unique characteristics of each. Jon and I stopped by to learn a little somethin’ new and (bonus) enjoy the delicious apple pie provided by Three Babes Bakeshop.
The workshop was just my style: welcoming, interactive, and tactile. Each table was piled high with raw fibers and textile swatches, carefully ordered so that we could follow along during the talk. As Geana explained how the fibers are processed into yarn, we glued bits of cotton, flax, wool, and silk to our worksheets. As she walked us through various types of fabric construction, we held up woven and knit swatches to observe how they moved and reflected light. We pulled threads loose to see how they crimped, compared cheap felt to the good stuff, and learned how cutting on the bias can affect a garment’s drape. We even passed around real silk pods, which I found rather enchanting.
The Elmer’s glue and craft tables gave the workshop a bit of an elementary school vibe, which was fine by me. As adults, we don’t tend to have the same curiosity about stuff as we did as kids, and much of our tactile interaction is limited to the plastic of our phones and keyboards. It was nice to be encouraged to pull things apart, roll the fibers between our fingertips, and generally learn with our senses.
There I am in the back, contemplating my next swatch
Takeaways
Although I sew often, this was one of the first times I’ve taken an up-close-and-personal look at the way fabric is put together (now I get why satin is glossy, for example). It certainly gave me a better appreciation of the work that goes into textile manufacturing, and a more holistic understanding of a garment’s lifecycle. Above all, I’m hoping it will help me make better-informed buying decisions in the future (back away from the cheap polyester!).
For Jon, who doesn’t sew but does have custom shirts and suits tailored, the session offered insight into how fabrics will breathe, drape, and wear over time.
I highly recommend this workshop to anyone, crafty or not, interested in learning more about the fibers we wear everyday. If you're in the San Francisco area, check out the next workshop on June 12!
Wardrobe Architect Catch-Up: Palettes and Prints
Needless to say, blogging and other extraneous activities (like unloading the dishwasher) have been on the back burner, and I have a little catching up to do on the Wardrobe Architect series. So here goes...
Exploring Solids and Prints
In this post, Sarai talks about seductive power of prints (yep! you should see my stash), and encourages us consider which prints we will actually wear vs. the ones that are just plain cute. These days, I've been gravitating heavily towards solids in my professional wardrobe, partly because it's just a heck of a lot easier to put outfits together when you're only working with 1-2 colors. And when I'm groggily trying to dress myself at 6am, this is invaluable.
But prints are tons of fun, and even a simple stripe can add dimension and personality to an outfit. Here are the find myself wearing most often:
- Stripes, checks, and plaids - bring 'em on. Stripes are by far the most common print in my closet, and I love me a gingham halter top. Classic.
- Polka dots - I wear these more sparingly, and usually of the smaller, more subtle variety. I like how the ikat print above adds a little texture to the traditional polka dot.
- Geometrics - I love geometric patterns, but prefer them on a more textured fabric (wovens, knits). My Portland Collection sweater is pretty much my ideal geometric print, but I also love the twist that the dip-dye print adds above.
- Florals - I'm drawn to bright, bohemian floral patterns -- things that look a little dreamy and painted-on. I usually prefer florals that have a vintage touch, and I have total weakness for campy, tiki room designs.
From top left: Premier Prints Ikat Craze Birch Frost, Striped Rayon Jersey Knit, John Kaldor Shake Pink, Cotton Black and White Gingham, Ink Dyed Fabric (I have no idea where this came from), Onyx/ Natural Ikat Dots
My color palette
This exercise was a hard one for me, because if I didn't have some semblance of taste and discretion, I would wear ALL OF THE COLORS ALL THE TIME. I've always had a hard time answering that most-boring-of-questions, "what's your favorite color?" because I really don't have one. It depends. I love 'em all.
Fortunately the structure-craving half of my brain prevails, and so I've developed two guiding palettes:
Neutrals and near-neutrals
My neutrals and near-neutrals are pretty similar to those that Sarai identified. Black, navy, and red, along with honey and cream tones form the backbone of my wardrobe.
Statement colors
My statement colors tend to be warm and summery with the occasional jewel tone. I love combining tropical colors with a more traditional solid like navy or beige - in fact one of my all-time favorite dresses consists of this combination. This palette exemplifies one of my core style adjectives: lush.
I just took a trip to Britex last night with my prints and palette in mind, and ended up with some awesome finds. Oh so many, many plans...
The eight hour shirt/ exceptionally slow fashion
Two things:
1. I made these photos look all old timey to make up for the fact that they are underexposed.
2. I still pose for pictures like I am in the third grade
On the other hand, I MADE A SHIRT! From scratch (well, ok, from a pattern). I had no idea how empowering that would feel. And at the risk of sounding melodramatic, in times like these (scary times, Big Brother times), it's important to feel like we can do a little something to stick it to the corporate powers that be. Even if it's buying one less unethically-made shirt.
This was my first attempt at following a pattern, and it was actually much easier than I thought it would be. It might have taken a total of eight hours, but heck, it's winter and a good time for indoor activities. I followed
(beginner), and I am looking forward to ordering more. I found the organic cotton at a local fabric outlet, and it was the perfect material to start on (not the least bit stretchy). Look forward to more sewing-centric posts - I think I've found a new obession.
In the meantime, these are some sewing-related blogs I've been purusing:
Also, a great article on slow fashion that I meant to link to a while back: