Rituals
I almost gave up on this Aster blouse three times: first when I botched the back pleat; secondly when I decided that double bias tape would work just as well as single (it doesn't); and finally when I sewed several crooked buttonholes on to my too-narrow placket. But last Friday, it suddenly seemed very important to keep trying.
So I started sewing again... with a vengeance.
Although the details are too personal to share here, let's just say I've been wrestling with a lot of emotions over the past two weeks. My upbeat Instagram posts belie some very real, adult-level sadness, and I've had more than a few cry sessions on my morning commute. It's life, I am ok, and I have friends, family, and an awesome husband to get me through. But when you're hurting in the midst of much bigger tragedies (Paris, the refugee crisis, escalating racial tensions here in United States), it's easy to disappear into your sad cave for a while.
Yesterday I felt the need for some kind of ritual. I'm not particularly religious, but I do crave tradition and still hold on to a smattering of Catholic-liberal-Christian beliefs. In times like these they help a lot; I need to believe in something bigger than myself and my own sorrow. So I walked down to the market and bought a bouquet of fresh flowers. I made a marigold chain, burned some sage and lit a few candles.
And I commemorated the silly, mistake-ridden blouse I that I approached with so much love and tenacity. A project I finished just to finish something. To find joy in creation. To prove that life goes on.
Wardrobe Architect 2015: Planning My Spring/ Summer Capsule Wardrobe
During the first round of the Wardrobe Architect series, I did a lot of work defining my core style, favorite shapes, silhouettes, color palette, and print preferences, culminating in aSpring/ Summer capsule wardrobe plan. Then summer happened, and I never actually got around to sewing anything. All of that thinking did help me make smarter shopping choices, though, and I ended up investing in a few versatile pieces that I wore all summer long.
This year, I created an expanded Spring/ Summer capsule plan that includes several pieces from my current wardrobe. I plan to fill in the gaps with some handmade separates, dresses, and maybe even a Rigel bomber if I'm feeling ambitious. As for the pieces I know I can't make (e.g., the leather jacket and skinny jeans), I plan to hit up my favorite ethical brands like Amour Vert, Everlane, and Adriano Goldschmied. So here it is: the full Spring/ Summer vision above and the detailed plan below, including pattern choices from Colette, Grainline, Papercut, By Hand London, and Simplicity. If some of the "Have" pieces look familiar, it's because they're actual photos of my clothes... which I photographed on a dress form and painstakingly isolated in Photoshop. In other words, I had a rockin' Saturday night.
From top left: Chambray Button-up Shirt, Madewell Denim Jacket, Papercut Rigel Bomber, Everlane Seed Stitch Raglan, Theory Lace Sweatshirt, Veda Leather Jacket, Amour Vert Breton Top, Grainline Tiny Pocket Tank, Simplicity Vintage Halter, Jean Short Cutoffs, Cream Skinny Jeans, Grainline Maritime Shorts, BCBG Sundress, Amanda Uprichard Sundress, By Hand London Georgia Dress, Colette Mabel Skirt, Blue Paisley Skirt, Colette Zinnia Skirt
#1 Crush: A Colette Mabel for the 90's Teen in You
So 1995 called and it was like, "hey girl, what you need is a crushed velvet mini skirt."
I've been trying to get back in the sewing groove lately, and Colette's Mabel skirt promised to be a quick weekend project. No closures, no pressing, no sweat. Plus this pretty, wintery velvet (from Fabric Outlet in the Mission) was calling my name. I did have some trouble keeping the pieces lined up as I assembled them (maybe I'm just lazy, but I rarely pin before I stitch), so I used hem tape to hold this slippery fabric in place. It worked amazingly well, and I may start using this technique for all of my projects.
Now excuse me while I turn on the Romeo + Juliet soundtrack and dream about forming an all-girl alt rock band...
Crafting and Ethical Wardrobe: the Knee-Length Skirt
I like to balance structure with flow, so I usually opt for a snug pencil skirt with a looser blouse or a fitted sweater with an a-line. As part of the Wardrobe Architect project, I put together some of my favorite silhouettes during week four; you can also use these handy templates (built painstakingly in Illustrator by yours truly) to find your favorite combination.
Where to buy it:
Trina Turk is a great choice for a variety of professional pieces, and much of her line is now made in California. I'm especially in love with a grey pencil skirt I recently found at Nordstrom Rack. The fit is perfect for my particular shape (narrower at the waist with plenty of room for the ol' hips), and the construction is amazing. I usually look for Trina Turk on sale; otherwise, her stuff can run a little steep.
If you're more interested in shopping fair trade, try People Tree, Annie Greenabelle, or One Mango Tree, all of whom usually carry a pencil skirt. I also love Mata Traders' Speakeasy skirt from their Fall collection.
How to make it:
I've had one of Colette's Zinnia skirts cut in a lightweight navy wool and ready to assemble in my sewing drawer for... oh, I don't know, eight months now? At any rate, I love it, and hope to finally finish mine before the end of the year (modest goals, folks). I also bought By Hand London's Charlotte skirt pattern in the hopes of making a floral version like Oona's below. Just lovely. A few more options include Sewaholic's Hollyburn skirt, Tilly's Miette, and Deer and Doe's Anemone. By Hand London also has a great tutorial on creating a simple gathered skirt — no pattern needed.
Wardrobe Architect Weeks 9 and 10: the Travel Capsule
A seasonal wardrobe can feel like a joke in San Francisco, when you're just as likely to battle a damp, biting wind in July as you are in December. Warm summer afternoons turn wicked by 4pm, when the fog rolls in and the wool jackets come out. I don't mind – I'm one of those poor suckers who fell in love with this city – but it can make planning a Spring/ Summer capsule wardrobe a little complicated.
The steps to a capsule wardrobe are simple:
- Choose one to six silhouettes for the season.
- Create a color palette.
- Break down your silhouettes and colors into a list of pieces.
- Organize what to make, what to buy, and what you already own.
My Travel Capsule
Instead of trying to create a wardrobe that would be appropriate for a San Francisco summer - which would necessarily include tights, scarves, and sweaters - I focused on creating one for travel. Although we haven't decided exactly where we want to go yet, Jon and I are hoping to sneak off to a warmer climate in late August (either central America or central Europe - we'll see). The idea of spending all day in a sleeveless dress makes me giddy, and it made planning this capsule a lot more fun.
After all the work I and many others did to define our core style, favorite shapes, silhouettes, color palette, and print preferences, choosing the 6 silhouettes above was a breeze. Although my actual Spring/ Summer (travel) capsule wardrobe will be a bit more expansive, I think these are generally the shapes and colors I'll feel great traipsing around in this season.
For the palette, I narrowed down my choices to 5 neutrals and 5 statement colors. Navy, tropical blues, pinks, and corals paired with creams and camels will play just as well in Paris and they might in Mexico City:
Next, I'll be off to spring clean my closet and see which pieces I can incorporate into the capsule. Then, let the making begin!
Sunshine, Cat Eyes, and a Striped Laurel
This weekend has been ridiculous -- a span of warm, sunny days that actually made sleeveless dresses and sandals an option. Good thing I whipped up this sleeveless knit Laurel dress last week (seriously, it was a super quick project)!
I initially meant for this to be a muslin/ practice round, as it was my first go at a knit and my first time sewing Laurel. I found 3 1/2 yards of this gorgeous fabric in the salvage section of Britex, so I figured I had room to play around.
...And there certainly is room for improvement here. First of all, I should have sized down; although the dress looks fine with a belt, it's a bit too big in the bust and waist. And I'm jonesing for a serger that will allow me to sew more professional looking knit garments (especially since I'm planning to sew Tilly's Coco pattern and dive into the Colette Guide to Sewing Knits). This time, I improvised by using a zigzag stitch on the sleeves and hem, folding them inside, then finishing by hand. This actually ended up looking fine, and added a nice drape to the neckline, but I'm not sure how well the seams will hold up over time.
So although this wearable muslin will certainly get worn this spring and summer, I can't wait to play around with more knits! I love how easy they are to sew up and how beautifully they drape -- not to mention the fact that they're stupid comfortable. As I move toward sewing more wardrobe staples, I think knits are where it's at.
Wardrobe Architect Catch-Up: Palettes and Prints
Needless to say, blogging and other extraneous activities (like unloading the dishwasher) have been on the back burner, and I have a little catching up to do on the Wardrobe Architect series. So here goes...
Exploring Solids and Prints
In this post, Sarai talks about seductive power of prints (yep! you should see my stash), and encourages us consider which prints we will actually wear vs. the ones that are just plain cute. These days, I've been gravitating heavily towards solids in my professional wardrobe, partly because it's just a heck of a lot easier to put outfits together when you're only working with 1-2 colors. And when I'm groggily trying to dress myself at 6am, this is invaluable.
But prints are tons of fun, and even a simple stripe can add dimension and personality to an outfit. Here are the find myself wearing most often:
- Stripes, checks, and plaids - bring 'em on. Stripes are by far the most common print in my closet, and I love me a gingham halter top. Classic.
- Polka dots - I wear these more sparingly, and usually of the smaller, more subtle variety. I like how the ikat print above adds a little texture to the traditional polka dot.
- Geometrics - I love geometric patterns, but prefer them on a more textured fabric (wovens, knits). My Portland Collection sweater is pretty much my ideal geometric print, but I also love the twist that the dip-dye print adds above.
- Florals - I'm drawn to bright, bohemian floral patterns -- things that look a little dreamy and painted-on. I usually prefer florals that have a vintage touch, and I have total weakness for campy, tiki room designs.
From top left: Premier Prints Ikat Craze Birch Frost, Striped Rayon Jersey Knit, John Kaldor Shake Pink, Cotton Black and White Gingham, Ink Dyed Fabric (I have no idea where this came from), Onyx/ Natural Ikat Dots
My color palette
This exercise was a hard one for me, because if I didn't have some semblance of taste and discretion, I would wear ALL OF THE COLORS ALL THE TIME. I've always had a hard time answering that most-boring-of-questions, "what's your favorite color?" because I really don't have one. It depends. I love 'em all.
Fortunately the structure-craving half of my brain prevails, and so I've developed two guiding palettes:
Neutrals and near-neutrals
My neutrals and near-neutrals are pretty similar to those that Sarai identified. Black, navy, and red, along with honey and cream tones form the backbone of my wardrobe.
Statement colors
My statement colors tend to be warm and summery with the occasional jewel tone. I love combining tropical colors with a more traditional solid like navy or beige - in fact one of my all-time favorite dresses consists of this combination. This palette exemplifies one of my core style adjectives: lush.
I just took a trip to Britex last night with my prints and palette in mind, and ended up with some awesome finds. Oh so many, many plans...
Wardrobe Architect Week 3: Exploring Shapes
This week, Colette's Wardrobe Architect Project focuses on shapes -- specifically, the silhouettes you feel most comfortable wearing. Again, this comes down to what you feel good in, not necessarily what you admire on other people. So while I think maxi dresses look amazing on some women, I can't leave the house in one without feeling ridiculous.
Sarai provides an awesome worksheet that helps you break your preferences down by ease (tight or loose), length, neckline, waistline position, sleeve length and fullness. I also created two illustrations (necklines and skirt styles) to help me visualize the process.
While my preference in many of these categories isn't very strong on an aesthetic level, I do find myself often gravitating toward the same shapes and combinations (skinny jeans and loose top, cinched waists and flared skirts). And so I share...
Ease
Generally, I like a loose top and tight pants, a full skirt and fitted top, or a fitted top and structured skirt. I like to accentuate my waist when possible, although in the right outfit a loose, flowing top makes me feel like an easy breezy bohemian princess. What I can never do is loose pants and a tight top (I refuse to relive that part of the 90's).
Neckline
Waistline position
I used to love a high, cinched waist (see: my prolonged Amy Winehouse phase), but these days I'm feeling a little more relaxed. For professional wear and fancy dresses I still opt for a higher waistline, but for everything else I like it to fall at my natural waist.
Sleeve length
I'm a fan of long or three-quarter length sleeves or sleeveless tops. Being broad-shouldered, cap and short sleeves don't generally do me any favors.
Skirt fullness/ length
I love a skirt I can spin in, but anything too full makes me feel like I'm wearing a costume. So the only thing I rule out is a skirt full enough to accommodate copious amounts crinoline. The longest I'll go is an inch or so below the knee (I think the only time I've worn a floor-length skirt was on my wedding -- and yes, I tripped several times). In terms of shortness, I've been known to rock a mini-skirt now and then. Generally with tights.
Street style photos via The Sartorialist; Garment illustrations by yours truly.
Purple Haze: Colette Ginger Skirt in 60's-inspired Print
When I was a little kid growing up in the early 90’s and sporting bike shorts, LA Gears, and scrunchie socks, I was fairly certain that our generation had invented neon colors. I was even so presumptuous as to ask my dad what life was like before the invention of my then-favorite color: harlequin green. He promptly schooled me on the history of the neon palette, including its use in the psychedelic rock posters of the 60’s and 70’s, and his own airbrush art. My dad is the coolest.
Fast forward 20+ years, and I am finally realizing my childhood dream of singing in a classic rock band, thanks to the folks at Blue Bear School of Music and some seriously talented band mates. For our showcase, I wanted to create a mini skirt in a bright 60’s pattern using Colette’s Ginger pattern – and in the process finally conquer that nemesis of an invisible zipper. I’m happy to report that I was successful on both fronts.
I found the neon orange, black and purple floral print at Britex (97% cotton; 3% lycra, made in Italy), and sewed the whole thing up in an evening. The fact that I invested in a proper invisible zipper foot (instead of the crappy plastic one I had on hand) made a world of difference. I probably only dropped the f-bomb five times the whole night! Progress.
Sencha and Roses
I entered Britex with the intent of purchasing a neutral fabric to make a simple, versatile staple blouse. Instead, I walked away with this hot pink cotton lawn in a vintage floral pattern from Liberty. More frosting than cake, I'm nonetheless quite happy with the way this Sencha blouse turned out.
I made a few modifications, including widening the neckline slightly and adding a pan collar using pieces of Colette's Violet pattern (the collar fabric is a black embroidered cotton by Nanette Lepore). I like the combo -- it's got a bit of Betsey Johnson going on.
This pattern was insanely easy to follow, and I'm happy to discover the joys of working with cotton lawn. Although delicate and lightweight with a silky feel, it has zero stretch. This made sewing the darts easy peasy and eliminated the possibility of any alignment disasters. That combined with non-zip closure (it buttons in the back) makes this a great pattern for beginning sewists.
Colette Violet Revisited
As excited as I was about my inaugural sewing project, I find that I rarely wear the resulting Colette Violet blouse. I think it's partly because a bright white blouse is hard to pair on its own without looking too much like a uniform, and because a pan collar can look pretty juvenile without the right styling (seriously, I have got to get away from that beret). So I decided to revive this shirt with some more sophisticated elements: my J. Crew No.2 Pencil skirt in poppy, a navy blue sweater vest (thrifted), and my trusty Paolo leather flats.
Also, if you ever find that your necklace is too short to fit around that collared shirt, simply safety pin the ends underneath the collar. Viola!
Colette Nutmeg in Ikat
I will be spending some time in the desert at the end of the month (*cough* burningman *cough*), and I wanted to create a version of Colette's Nutmeg separates that could withstand the dust and heat.
The Ikat fabric I found at Britex works perfectly -- it's sturdy, colorful, and surprisingly soft. I decided to convert it to a halter top, and made some modifications to the knickers (i.e. found a way to make them even shorter).
Finally, I made some hair clips out of goose feathers, sea shells, and other random trinkets I had lying around. Time to get my hippie on.
The eight hour shirt/ exceptionally slow fashion
Two things:
1. I made these photos look all old timey to make up for the fact that they are underexposed.
2. I still pose for pictures like I am in the third grade
On the other hand, I MADE A SHIRT! From scratch (well, ok, from a pattern). I had no idea how empowering that would feel. And at the risk of sounding melodramatic, in times like these (scary times, Big Brother times), it's important to feel like we can do a little something to stick it to the corporate powers that be. Even if it's buying one less unethically-made shirt.
This was my first attempt at following a pattern, and it was actually much easier than I thought it would be. It might have taken a total of eight hours, but heck, it's winter and a good time for indoor activities. I followed
(beginner), and I am looking forward to ordering more. I found the organic cotton at a local fabric outlet, and it was the perfect material to start on (not the least bit stretchy). Look forward to more sewing-centric posts - I think I've found a new obession.
In the meantime, these are some sewing-related blogs I've been purusing:
Also, a great article on slow fashion that I meant to link to a while back: